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Why
can’t I use just any pump for my pond? © 2001 By
David A. Dec
Pump head or total dynamic head is the most misunderstood topic among pond owners. Most pond owners think their pump head is between 5 and 7 feet. They are shocked when they find out that it is actually between 20 and 40 feet. Matching a pump to the pump head is vital, but seldom done. If you buy a pump that is way
too small it may only move a trickle of water, or possibly none at all. One that
is a bit larger can still be too small to give good aeration, filtration and
surface skimming. Overloading a pump that is too small can result in a shorter
pump life, and more repairs. Often people who buy too small a pump will buy 1 or
more of the same pump, so they wind up running several pumps with higher
operating costs than 1 properly sized pump. On the other hand, choosing a
pump that is too large will not only waste a lot of money to run it, but can
actually result in damage to the plumbing and equipment. In order to pick out the correct pump there are 5 steps you need to go through:
I. Determining the volume of your pondThe first thing you need to do is determine the volume of you pond. If you have not done that yet it is the length (ft) x width (ft) x depth (ft) x 7.48 gallons / cubic foot = U.S. Gallons.
If your pond has a very irregular shape you may want to back-calculate its volume by measuring changes in the salinity when you add salt. There are some very good salinity test kits that are extremely accurate. The procedure is to:
II. Determining the flow you wantIf you have a pond that is under
a few thousand gallons you may want to turn it over 2 to 3 times per hours. This
is similar to large marine aquarium owners who have learned to turn over their
aquariums' water a minimum of 3 times per hour. If
it is a larger pond you may want to turn it over only once every 2 hours. Peter Waddington, in his book
“Koi Kichi”, says the real volume of water a fish lives in is determined by
multiplying the pump's flow per hour times 24 hours per day. For instance, 3,333
gallons/hour yields a "real volume" of 80,000 gallons that the Koi
actually live in, regardless of the actual size of the pond. This says that the
water pump’s output is
more important than the size of the pond. So people with smaller
ponds will want to turn them over more often than those with larger ponds. So let’s say you have a 5,000-gallon pond, and you want to turn it over every 1-½ hours. We simply divide the size of your pond by the number of hours you want for a complete turnover to get your flow rate. So for our example the flow needs to be 5,000 / 1.5 = 3,333 gallons per hour (GPH) or 3,333 / 60 = 55.5 gallons per minute (GPM). The flow rate is very important and determines the size of you piping and pump. III. Determining the correct pipe size for your pondThe Plastic Pipe and Fittings
Association (PPFA) says PVC pipe should be designed for a maximum flow-rate
velocity of 5 to 8 feet per second (fps) through the pipe. They say 8 fps is ok
for pipe sizes less than 1” in diameter, but it should be less than 5 fps for
pipe sizes of 1 ¼ “ or larger. Higher velocities can actually cause pipe
failure and rupture, as well as astronomically large resistance to water flow,
which necessitates higher horsepower requirements, and higher operating costs. How do you determine the
velocity of the flow rate in feet per second? The equation is: Velocity in fps =
.4085 x GPM / d2 Where GPM = gallons per minute, and d =
inside diameter of the pipe in inches. The following table shows the
results of these fps calculations for various pipe diameters (d) and flow rates
in GPH and GPM: Table One
So we need to pick a velocity that is less than 5 fps from the above table. So looking at the above table for our example, we want to look down the 3,600 GPH column (since we want a flow of 3,333) until we find an fps that is less than 5. When we do that we see 4.10 fps corresponds to a 2-½ “ pipe. One 2” pipe would be pushing
the envelope, but we could use 2-2” pipes; like one 2” pipe from the bottom
drain, and another 2” pipe from the skimmer. Both pipes could terminate in the
ends of a Tee fitting, with valves for each, with the center branch feeding the
pump. By the way, 2-2” pipes have about the same area as 1-3” pipe. IV. Determining the water pressure needed from the Total Dynamic Head (TDH), or the sum of all the sources of pump head Ph, for your designHead is best defined as
“resistance to flow”. A higher head means you need more pressure to overcome
it. The term “head” is further modified by whether the
resistance is encountered on the suction side of the pump (suction head (HS)
from the pond to the pump) or the discharge side (discharge head (HD)
from the pump to the pond); whether it is caused by the standing height of the
water (static head hsh = height of the waterfall or fountain above
the water’s surface) or by the movement of water through the system (dynamic
head = hd); whether the resistance is caused by simple friction due
to fittings and pipe sizing (friction head = hf ) or by the equipment
resistance (he). TDH = HS
+ HD = (hsh + hd + hf + he)S
+ (hsh + hd + hf + he)D In order to determine the total
dynamic head (TDH) we need to consider all of these sources:
This TDH or Ph is the most
difficult calculation for everyone, because it is very complicated. Here is a
table of the resistance in feet of pump head for every 10-foot length of pipe as
a function of water flow: Table Two
Where do these values come from? The PPFA says to use the Hazen-Williams Equation. The equation is: Ph = 104.4 / C1.852
x (GPM)1.852 / d4.8655 where Ph is the pump head in
feet per 10 feet of pipe, GPM is gallons per minute, d is the inside diameter of
the pipe in inches, C is a pipe smoothness coefficient that is 150 for new PVC;
140 for smooth walled copper, brass, etc.; 100 for ordinary iron pipe; and 80
for old iron pipe. Lasco’s PVC fittings website also uses this equation to show the fricti |